After more than 5 months of traveling, we finally landed on Maui. In this travel blog article, we tell you what we liked best on Hawaii's second largest island and what excursions we did here. Spoiler alert: It was definitely worth it for us!
As mentioned in our first travel report about Oahu, Hawaii was at the top of our wish list for over 20 years. The images and the flair presented in films and series from the fiftieth state of the USA have crept into our dreams. During our 6-month trip, we were finally lucky enough to visit two of the eight main islands. Our second stay was on Maui, the second largest island in the archipelago. You'll never forget a Hawaiian vacation on Maui.
A few facts about Maui
In July 2022, the population of Maui was just over 144,000 and the island is also known as “The Valley Isle” due to the flat land bridge (isthmus) created by erosion between the West Maui Mountains and Haleakalā. The land bridge between the two mountain regions looks like a valley and is a trademark of the island. The name of the island comes from the Polynesian demigod Māui. He is said to have brought fire to mankind - problematic from today's perspective, considering that the city of Lāhainā and its surroundings were almost completely destroyed by a huge fire in August 2023. The effects of this catastrophe, which devastated the entire island, were still visible a year later.
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After the forest fire, in which 99 people lost their lives and around 3,000 buildings were completely destroyed, the people of Maui showed great strength and solidarity. There was a great willingness to help and the hashtag #LahainaStrong and the slogan “Lahaina stay strong” were created, which can be found everywhere.
Geographically, Maui is part of the Hawaiian archipelago in the South Pacific and, together with New Zealand (Aotearoa) and Easter Island (Rapa Nui), forms the Polynesian Triangle. The largest towns on Maui are Kahului, the capital, as well as Kīhei, Wailuku and Makawao. A trip to Maui is tempting, but should be carefully considered due to the distance from Europe. The average flight time from Vienna is 22 hours - not including stopovers and waiting times.
We recommend that all those who want to go to Hawaii plan the outward journey with at least two stopovers, e.g. in New York and Los Angeles. From L.A. to Honolulu or Kahului is still a 5-hour flight.
What is the weather like on Maui?
I don't want to shatter any illusions, but even Hawaii has bad weather from time to time. We were also caught out by a storm on one of our trips.
At sea level, Maui has a stable, tropical climate all year round. In summer, the average temperature is between 23 and 31 degrees Celsius, in winter around 18 to 27 degrees Celsius. What will surprise many now: There is snowfall on the summit of Haleakalā (3055 m) in some winters and in 2019 the snow line even dropped to lower altitudes.
The water temperature of the Pacific ranges from 22 to 27 °C and the rainiest period is from November to March. Due to the topography of the island, the annual rainfall varies considerably. The summit region of the West Maui Mountains, for example, is one of the rainiest places on earth with around 10,000 mm of rainfall per year, while Kīhei, in the rain shadow of Haleakalā, only receives around 250 mm of rainfall annually.
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The hurricane season in Maui runs from late summer to fall, but the last significant hurricane “ʻIniki” only grazed Maui in 1992. The much more frequent tropical winter storms, also known as the Pineapple Express, usually come from a south-easterly direction. Maui is also considered to be tsunami prone and has a very good early warning system. This is at least a little reassuring after the tsunami disaster in the Indian Ocean in 2004.
The prices on Maui
To get straight to the point: If you're not couchsurfing and saving on accommodation costs, Hawaii will be one of the most expensive vacations of your life. Everything simply costs a lot more here than in the second most expensive US state of California. In our opinion, a cheap vacation in Hawaii is very difficult to achieve - if at all.
During our entire 6-month trip, we actually always tried to find accommodation where we could cook for ourselves - at least a microwave is a good way to save money. We also went out to eat, but not very often. But self-catering is also more expensive on Maui than elsewhere, so we were glad when we found a Walmart store on Oahu and Maui. There is a huge selection at the local supermarket and the prices are comparatively moderate.
If you want to eat well and cheaply, just visit the Asian chain “Panda Express” - the food here is tasty and the portions are absolutely sufficient. At Panda Express on Maui, you can get four portions for around 60 dollars. That's a bargain for Hawaii. Otherwise, you have to expect to pay at least 20 dollars per person for street food (for comparatively small portions).
Maui also has a lot to offer in terms of accommodation prices. Only Vancouver could keep up and was similarly expensive. If you are traveling with your family, you should budget at least 200 dollars per night for a four-bed room. We did a lot of research and booked our rooms during our stay in the Dominican Republic - that was in March, almost four months in advance. If you book early, you can get an early booking bonus on some platforms.
Our first accommodation on Maui
We spent a total of 16 days on Maui with our two children and split this time between two accommodations. In the first week, we got what we thought was a particularly good bargain with the Ka'anapali Beach Club. This apartment house belongs to the Hilton Vacation Group and is located directly on the beautiful Ka'anapali Beach and is superbly equipped. A dream for our Hawaiian vacation on Maui!
The Ka'anapali Beach Club has a very spacious and bright indoor area.
We rented a spacious and modern four-bed apartment here and loved it right from the start. The luxurious apartment had a well-equipped kitchen, a large bathroom with shower and bathtub, comfortable beds, a balcony with a great view and a spacious living room. There is also a great pool area with two hot tubs (yes, we really enjoyed this on Maui too), a BBQ area, a fitness room, a restaurant, a concierge service, a children's club room including a small bowling alley. The apartment hotel also impresses with its very friendly staff and good service - you only have to clean the apartment yourself, it's practically self-catering.
We really liked our apartment at the Ka'anapali Beach Club.
Another advantage of the Ka'anapali Beach Club is its location. The massive but sun-drenched building is located directly on the very edge of Ka'anapali Beach. This is also where the beautiful Ka'anapali Beach Walk begins, directly along the sea. It is an experience, especially at dusk and at night, when the torches along the path light up. The sunset attracts many connoisseurs to the beach every evening and offers expensive and touristy (Ka Moana) Luhau and Rock-A-Hula shows. The sundowner is introduced every day by the loud blowing of a conch (see “The blowing of the pu”). This is how Hawaiians traditionally say goodbye to the day. It could not be more idyllic, even if many tourists attend this highlight.
The great pool area and direct beach location characterize the Ka'anapali Beach Club.
Blowing the Pooh
A fan made of Hawaiian shells blowing the "Pu" (pronounced "poo"), which is the Hawaiian name for shells, very often marks the official start of a ceremony these days. Traditionally, blowing the Pooh is a deep part of Hawaiian culture and has various meanings.
By the way, opposite the Hilton Vacation Hotel there is a small shopping center with a few restaurants and a (quite expensive) supermarket. Right next to the hotel complex there is a street food market with a good selection of local delicacies and some higher quality fast food. This market was only open in the evening.
We paid 206 euros for the night without meals at the Ka'anapali Beach Club - a very good deal for Maui.
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Our second accommodation on Maui
We were also very lucky with our second accommodation on Maui. The Palms at Wailea is an extensive apartment complex with spacious and very cozy vacation apartments in the quiet village of Wailea. We immediately felt at home here and spent nine nights in this little paradise. The Palms at Wailea offers Hawaii as you would imagine it: Palm trees, pool and sea breeze.
We had an apartment in the lower part of the exceptionally well-kept gardens and only had to walk a little uphill to get to the small but lovely pool. You could even see the sea from here. Of course, there was also a hot tube here - this is probably almost standard in the USA, as even most campsites on the mainland have small pools with hot bubbling water.
The Palms at Wailea exceeded our expectations. A great facility.
Our apartment was also very clean and spacious. We had two bathrooms, a large living area with a great kitchen, a terrace with a partial sea view, a free parking lot practically on the doorstep (very important in Hawaii) and a barbecue area just a minute's walk from the apartment. As in the first accommodation, we of course had several barbecues here too.
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Our tip: Just a 10-minute drive from the resort (either via Piilani Highway or S Kihei Road) is Foodland, a large supermarket for all your daily needs. If you drive along the coast, you will pass several restaurants and attractive beach parks.
The night at the Palms at Wailea cost us 292 euros per night via booking.com, making it the most expensive accommodation on our entire 6-month trip.
Two dream beaches within walking distance
The Palms at Wailea is not directly on the beach, but that doesn't matter. In just a 10-minute walk, we were either on the beautiful Keawakapu Beach or in the slightly more popular Mokapu Beach Park, which boasts a picturesque beach walk. There are also some hotels here, some of which are very expensive. However, we preferred Keawakapu Beach because it is anything but crowded and rewarded us with a magnificent sunset every evening. Oh, how we miss that! Incidentally, there are a few free parking spaces almost directly at the easily overlooked entrance to this dream beach.
“Oh, how we miss this!”
Quote from almost everyone who has returned from Hawaii.
What can you do on Maui?
As already mentioned, Maui is the second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago at 1883 km². Accordingly, there is a lot for visitors to do on Maui. As always, we took it easy, because vacation stress is the very last thing you need in Hawaii. Below we list a mixture of things we did ourselves and things we researched. You can't do everything in 9 days and we leave the choice up to you.
The main tourist centers on Maui are the coasts between Lāhainā and Kapalua and between Kīhei and Wailea. The island's attractions include the Road to Hāna in the northeast, the Kahekili Highway in the north, the 110 km² Haleakalā National Park and the ʻĪao Valley. Maui, like the rest of Hawaii, is one of the best surfing hotspots in the world. The most popular surfing and windsurfing spots in the north of Maui are Hoʻokipa, Jaws, Lanes, Spreckelsville and Kanahā. However, surfers should note that windsurfing is permitted on the entire North Shore from 11 am.
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Maui also has a lot to offer culturally and the Hawaiians are very proud of their culture. The largest cultural events on Maui include the annual Maui Fair in Wailuku with up to 100,000 visitors and the Makawao Stampede rodeo show in Makawao. The Kapalua Wine & Food Festival in July is also definitely worth a visit.
Haleakala Crater in HaleakalA National Park
You can reach this impressive summit region of Maui via Highway 378. The road winds its way up to an altitude of around 3040 m on Haleakalā. From Kahului, you should allow at least 1.5 hours to drive these 50 miles (80 km). The 1000-metre-deep crater can be easily explored on several hiking trails and impresses with its colorful splendour and diverse flora. During the day, the mountain is often shrouded in clouds.
Makaluapuna Point – Dragon’s Teeth
Anyone in West Maui should take a walk into the Dragon's Mouth. Dragon's Teeth is a good example of what can happen when forces of nature collide. As the lava from the West Maui volcano flowed into the ocean, impressive field formations, reminiscent of teeth, formed where the waves of the Pacific break. Makaluapuna Point, as it is also known, was formed from one of the last lava flows on Maui and is somewhat different from the rest of Maui's lava structures in that it is much lighter, denser and fine-grained. It was definitely a great trip for us.
The “Dragon’s Teeth” at Makaluapuna Point are definitely worth a trip.
Road to HAna
The road to Hāna is known far beyond the borders of Hawaii and is one of the most visited excursion destinations on Maui. On the eastern 50 miles or so, the road leads over 54 bridges into a rainforest region with numerous viewpoints and waterfalls. The partly single-lane road to Kīpahulu also leads to the final resting place of aviation pioneer Charles Lindbergh near the Palapala Hoʻomau Church. The Road to Hana is somewhat challenging, not to say tedious, as many tourists set off on good days.
Nevertheless, you shouldn't expect too much. We drove the Road to Hana and probably had the wrong idea - especially because there is virtually nowhere to park legally on the route. We've also seen more beautiful waterfalls elsewhere! Road to Hāna: You can do it, but you don't have to.
Finding a parking space on the Road to Hana is not that easy.
Diving and snorkeling spots.
Molokini Crater is a small, crescent-shaped island located just 4.8 km from the southwest coast of Maui. The striking elevation covers an area of 7.3 hectares and rises 49 meters above the Pacific Ocean. Snorkelers and divers will find a variety of corals and more than 250 species of tropical fish here. Tours are offered from nearby Maalaea Harbor and Lahaina. However, this popular excursion destination is sometimes a little overcrowded.
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Another great place for snorkeling is Turtle Town. The advantage: Turtle Town can easily be reached by rental car - just don't miss the entrance! Turtle Town is a stretch of beach in the west of Maui between Kahuna Point and Black Sand Beach. The coastal strip is located directly in front of the Makena Beach Resort. It is best to park at the northern end of the beach, at the end of Makena Road. The chance of encountering one or more of the sea turtles weighing up to 185 kilograms here is high and an unforgettable experience in any case.
Kīhei and the south coast
Kīhei is the second largest city on Maui and is located in the sunny part of the coast on Māʻalaea Bay. It has recently developed into a well-visited vacation center. Humpback whales can also be observed in this region from November to March, where they spend the winter mating and calving. Māʻalaea Bay is particularly popular with whales. We recommend the McGregor Point viewpoint. There are also several apartment complexes and hotels in this tourist center. Further south is Wailea, with luxurious hotels and golf courses. The region around Kihei is one of the least rainy on Maui.
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Lahaina
Lahaina is a former whaling and plantation town and is visited by two million tourists every year, which corresponds to around 80 percent of Maui's total number of tourists. The eye-catcher is the Banyan tree planted in 1873 in the town center. Lahaina is also home to several museums, such as the Baldwin Home, the Wo Hing Temple and the Prison. They bear witness to the past of the former island capital. The town was almost completely destroyed by an out-of-control forest fire in August 2023.
Paʻia
The old sugar cane town of Paʻia on the north coast of the island offers good surfing conditions. The coral reef Spartan Reef and rising warm air in the west, which acts like a powerful vacuum cleaner, sometimes create huge waves. At the end of March (PWA World Cup) and the beginning of November (Aloha Classic), the world's windsurfing elite meet in Hoʻokipa for the two most important wave regattas.
ʻiao Valley
We didn't want to miss out on the ʻao Needleʼ in the ʻao Valley. Starting in Wailuku, ʻĪao Road leads west for around 5 miles into the ʻĪao Valley - a dead end. The evergreen slopes of the West Maui Mountains in this valley are truly impressive and a credit to Maui. Admission to Kepaniwai County Park, a garden area with pavilions and streams, is affordable and well worth the trip. Finally, the valley's landmark, the 370 m high ʻĪao Needle, stands out in the park and is just one of several beautiful views. Please note, the number of parking spaces is limited.
The ʻĪao Valley is definitely worth the drive
Sugar Museum
The Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum in Puʻunēnē displays rural Hawaii and tools and photos from the past.
Bailey House Museum
In the Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House in Wailuku, you can view around 2000 objects and over 8000 historical photographs from Hawaiian history. The museum also shows the influence of the missionaries. The museum also includes an archive, a research library and a garden (Chas Fisher Memorial Gardens).
Maui Tropical Plantation
This tree nursery, about 4 km south of Wailuku, provides an overview of the useful plants of the Hawaiian islands.
Maalaea Harbor
Maalaea Harbor is the starting point for many of the island's best sunset and dinner cruises, fishing charters and snorkeling adventures to Molokini Crater. The 89-berth harbor is the focal point of a quiet bay in the southern corner between the West Maui Mountains and towering Haleakala. Between late November and early April, the picturesque viewpoint offers the opportunity to watch jumping humpback whales. Dolphins can be seen here at any time of year.
Pua'a State Waysidm Nahiku
This pretty little roadside park is a welcome place for weary travelers. Here you'll find restrooms, a lovely little waterfall and picnic tables. If you have brought a picnic lunch, this is an ideal place for a stopover. However, as the park is often busy, there are also less crowded picnic spots further down the road.
Maui Ku'ia Estate Chocolate
Discover Maui's Ku'ia Estate chocolate and cocoa farm, the largest chocolate factory in the state of Hawaii. On a booked tour, you will travel with a tour guide to the private cocoa plantation, nestled in the foothills of the West Maui Mountains. The interesting tour ends with a tasting of the award-winning chocolate - that always works, doesn't it?
Twin Falls Maui
The twin waterfalls are located on the Road to Hana - good if you can find a parking space there!
Maui Ocean Center
The Maui Ocean Center is an aquarium and oceanography center in Maalaea. The 3-acre facility was opened on March 13, 1998 by Coral World International and is the largest living tropical reef aquarium in the Western Hemisphere. The Maui Ocean Center is considered one of the best aquariums in the United States.
Our tip: A helicopter flight over Maui
On Maui, we dug a little deeper into our wallets for a change and booked a helicopter flight over the island. The breathtaking helicopter tour lasted 75 minutes, went as far as the island of Molokai and even included a stopover. We thought to ourselves: where, if not here?
You definitely won't forget a helicopter flight over Maui!
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The most beautiful beaches on Maui
With its 193 km of coastline, Maui has a lot to offer. 50 km of which are undeniably dream beaches. Here you will find white, black and red sand beaches, first-class spots for surfing, swimming, snorkeling and sunbathing. Several of Maui's beaches are easily accessible beach parks with lifeguards, picnic areas and restrooms. However, there are also undeveloped and remote beaches on Maui. You just have to find out in advance.
Incidentally, nowhere else have we seen as many turtles as on Maui. We have put together a small selection of beaches for you here.
Note: The water and beach conditions in Hawaii are as varied as the islands themselves. Visit HIOCEANSAFETY.COM for the latest information on surf and wind conditions.
Strände im Süden Mauis:
Makena Big Beach
This breathtaking white sandy beach is also known as “Big Beach” and is one of the most popular beaches on Maui. At over 2.4 kilometers long, it is also one of the longest beaches on Maui. Makena Beach is protected from the trade winds by two large outcrops of black lava rock. The magnificent view of Molokini and Kahoolawe alone is worth the journey. Toilets and picnic facilities are available and there are a few food trucks right in front of the beach park.
Makena Big Beach is located south of Wailea, about a 50-minute drive from Lahaina and is open daily from 6 am to 6 pm.
Kihei and Kamaole Beach Parks I, II and III
Kamaole Beach Parks consists of three beaches. There is something for everyone here. The infrastructure here is also excellent. There are several beaches, bays and tidal pools along the almost 10-kilometer-long coastline of Kihei. Keawakapu Beach is also located just 0.8 kilometers from Wailea Resort and offers the views that are so typical of Hawaii. Beautiful!
Polo Beach
Not quite as far south as Big Beach, this small beach is hidden between the resorts of Kihei and Wailea. At the south end is the Polo Beach Club and on the north side is the Fairmont Kea Lani Hotel. Polo Beach is also a nice snorkeling and picnic spot, but only has around 10 free parking spaces in the immediate vicinity. Those who arrive early park first.
Wailea Beach
Wailea Beach is our second favorite beach on Maui. The fine sandy beach lined with palm trees and crystal clear sea water make Wailea Beach one of the most beautiful and popular beaches in the world. We spent several days here as we were able to walk there from our second hotel.
Wailea Beach is one of our absolute favorite beaches on Maui.
Beaches in the west of Maui
Ka'anapali Beach
This beach is also one of our absolute favorites on Maui. There is a great beach walk here and a number of good hotels and restaurants. Kaanapali Beach has already won several awards as the best beach in America. One of Kaanapali Beach's most famous attractions is the daily cliff jumping ceremony on the northernmost cliffs of the beach, known as “Puu Kekaa” or “Black Rock”. But we were blown away by the spectacular sunsets!
Ka'anapali Beach and the associated beach walk are simply great.
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D.T. Fleming Beach Park
A classic sandy beach that was awarded the title of “Best Beach in the USA” in 2006. It is the most popular bodysurfing and bodyboarding spot in western Maui and offers numerous amenities such as picnic tables and barbecue areas. Dangerously high waves and strong surf can occur here.
Hanakaoo Beach Park:
A great beach for water sports enthusiasts, as it has everything from a canoe clubhouse to paddleboard rentals. The calm waters are also ideal for snorkeling and swimming. The honu, the green sea turtle, can also often be seen here. Perfect for romantic sunsets.
Kapalua Beach
Maui veterans will remember this beach as Old Fleming Beach. It was the first beach on Maui to be voted the best beach in the USA in 1991. Also suitable for families due to the calm waters.
Launiupoko Beach Park
This beach is located south of Lahaina. There is a unique natural pool surrounded by a wall of lava rock. The place is especially popular with locals and a great beach for smaller children.
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Beaches in northern Maui
Hamoa Beach
For best-selling author James Michener (The Bay), Hamoa Beach in Hana is “the most beautiful beach in the Pacific.” Here you will find excellent conditions for swimming and body surfing and there are showers and other comfort facilities.
Baldwin Beach Park
You can relax very well on this dream beach, which merges into Baby Beach at the western end and leads to Baldwin Cove at the eastern end. Although the beach is well known, it is almost never overcrowded.
Ho'okipa Beach Park
Ho'okipa Beach Park is not exactly known as a swimming beach and is more of a surfer's paradise. The waves here can be huge, especially in winter, and often offer spectacular photo opportunities. Picnic tables and restrooms are available.
Kanaha Beach Park
Kanaha Beach Park is also known for its excellent windsurfing conditions. But swimmers and snorkelers also get their money's worth here. Lifeguards, toilets, showers and picnic tables are available here. Locals love this beach.
Our tip for the day of departure: If you don't have to be at the airport until later in the evening but have to check out of your accommodation, you can also buy a day ticket at some resorts or hotels and spend the day as a guest at the pool. We did that and spent the last day at the luxury resort Fairmont Kea Lani - it was expensive but a wonderful end to our Hawaii trip.
If you you want to make a hawaiian vacation on Maui or you think we have forgotten an important beach or other information, please feel free to contact us.
Conclusion
Even if the exceptionally long journey from Europe is no picnic, Maui has enough to offer to reward these hardships. The second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago is a real dream destination. At the same time, Maui is also one of the most expensive travel destinations we have visited so far. Everything is a lot more expensive here than anywhere else. But the great beaches, our turtle encounters, and the views from the helicopter tour make up for every dollar spent. If you've always wanted to go to Hawaii, you shouldn't miss Maui. We'll come back when we're “close”.
Read our other blog posts and write to us if you feel like it.
Until the next blog, best regards,
Steffi, Max and the kids
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Lonely Planet's local travel experts reveal all you need to know to plan the trip of a lifetime to Maui.
Discover popular and off the beaten track experiences from digging into Maui specialty dishes at the revered Sam Sato's in Wailuku to snorkelling the abundant coral that line the edges of Honolua Bay, and hiking past stone temples and a burial ground in the Halawa Valley.
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